Most people settle this one by habit. You either shave at the sink before you get in, or you wait until you've showered and the mirror has fogged over. Habit isn't a bad guide, but if you've ever wondered why one way feels smoother than the other, there's a simple reason, and it comes down to water.
The short answer
Shave after a shower, or at least during the last few minutes of one. Warm water softens your hair and your skin, so the razor glides through instead of dragging. For most people that means less tugging, fewer nicks and a closer shave. If you really prefer to shave first, you can get most of the same benefit by soaking your face or legs with warm water for a few minutes before you start.
Why warm water makes such a difference
Hair is surprisingly tough when it's dry. Each strand is made of keratin, and a dry beard hair is often compared to copper wire of the same thickness. That's why a dry shave feels like the blade is pulling rather than cutting.
Water changes that. Hair soaks up water and swells, and as it does, it gets softer and easier to cut. It takes a few minutes for this to happen, which is the reason a quick splash at the sink doesn't do as much as a full shower. By the time you've washed your hair and scrubbed up, your stubble has had plenty of time to soak.
The warmth helps your skin too. A warm, damp face feels more supple, and the razor moves across it more easily. The steam in a shower does a lot of the work a barber's hot towel does, without the fuss.
The case for shaving after a shower
- Softer hair. Several minutes in warm water is the easiest way to get stubble ready for a blade.
- Cleaner skin. Washing first clears away oil, sweat and dead skin that can clog a razor and make it skip.
- Fewer passes. When the hair cuts easily, you need fewer strokes over the same patch, and that's kinder to your skin.
- A better lather. Shaving cream or soap spreads and stays put better on warm, damp skin.
The case for shaving before a shower
Some people like to shave first so they can rinse off every bit of lather and stray hair in the shower, leaving the sink clean. That's a fair reason, especially in a shared bathroom. The catch is that your hair is still dry and firm, so you lose the softening effect unless you prep for it.
If you'd rather shave first, wash your face with warm water and a good bar of soap, then hold a warm, wet washcloth on your face for two or three minutes. It's not quite a shower, but it gets you most of the way there.
What about shaving in the shower?
Plenty of people split the difference and shave at the end of their shower. It works well. Your hair has had time to soften, the steam keeps everything warm, and cleanup is as easy as it gets. A small shower mirror helps if you're shaving your face. Just save the shave for the end, so you're not shaving while the water is still doing its job.
One tip for legs. Shaving in the shower is the norm for a reason, but give it a few minutes first. Wash your hair, condition it, and then shave once your skin has had time to warm up.
How long should you soak before shaving?
A few minutes is plenty. Most shaving guides suggest at least two or three minutes of warm water on your hair before the blade comes out, and an average shower covers that easily. There's no extra benefit to standing under the water until your fingers prune. In fact, a very long, very hot shower can leave skin feeling dry, so warm beats scalding.
Does this apply to legs, underarms and heads too?
Yes. The same rule holds anywhere you shave. Leg and underarm hair softens in warm water just like a beard does, and the skin there benefits from being clean before a razor goes over it. Head shavers often find the end of a shower is the easiest time too, since the scalp is warm and the hair is soft.
The one difference is how much area you're covering. Legs take longer, so the first part of your shower is a good time to wash up and let things soak, and the last few minutes are for the razor.
Morning or night?
It mostly comes down to your schedule. A morning shave after a shower leaves you looking sharpest during the day. A night shave gives any redness a few hours to settle before anyone sees it, which some people with easily irritated skin prefer. Either works, as long as you warm up and wash first.
How to get a smoother shave, step by step
- Shower first, or soak for a few minutes. Warm water on your hair and skin is the single biggest thing you can do.
- Wash the area. A gentle bar of soap clears away oil and grime so the blade doesn't skip.
- Use a real lather. Shaving cream or shaving soap gives the razor something to glide on. If you've never tried a shaving soap and brush, we walk through it in how to use shaving soap.
- Use a sharp blade. A dull razor tugs, no matter how well you prep. Swap blades or cartridges as soon as they start to drag.
- Go with the grain first. Shaving in the direction your hair grows is gentler. If you want it closer, lather again and go across the grain on a second pass.
- Rinse the blade often. A clogged razor doesn't cut well. Rinse it after every stroke or two.
- Rinse your skin with cool water. When you're done, splash with cool water and pat dry with a clean towel rather than rubbing.
- Moisturize. A plain, unscented moisturizer or aftershave balm helps your skin feel comfortable afterward.
Does the soap you shower with matter?
A little. The soap you wash with sets up your skin for the razor, so it helps to use one that rinses clean and doesn't leave your skin feeling tight. Many people who shave every day like a bar made from plant oils, with a creamy lather and a short ingredient list.
If your skin runs sensitive, a fragrance-free bar is a good place to start. Our Castile Soap is made with 100% organic olive oil and no added scent. If you want something with a little more character, Give Yer Balls a Scrub brings bergamot, bourbon and burnt lumber, and the rest of our men's bars are worth a browse too.
One thing to know. A body bar and a shaving soap aren't the same thing. Shaving soaps are made to whip into a dense, slick lather that cushions a blade. You can lather a regular bar in a pinch, but a proper shaving cream or soap will give you a smoother result.
When bumps and irritation stick around
Everyone gets the occasional bit of redness after a shave, and better prep usually takes care of it. If you get bumps that keep coming back, or irritation that doesn't settle down, it's worth a chat with a dermatologist. Some people's hair and skin need a different routine, and a doctor can help you find one.
The bottom line
If you can, shave after your shower or at the end of it. Warm water softens your hair, your skin is clean, and the razor has an easier job. If you'd rather shave first, a few minutes with a warm washcloth gets you most of the way there. Either way, a sharp blade, a good lather and a gentle hand matter more than the clock.
Looking for a bar to start your routine? Browse the whole soap shelf, or read up on what makes castile soap different.